noob/idiot suspension question

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tyler
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noob/idiot suspension question

Post by tyler » Wed Sep 02, 2015 7:30 pm

99 jeep tj


so after ripping my hanging low shock mounts off, i opted to get new ones and relocate them up higher behind the axel tubes, called eric and got some new shocks to fit my new endeavor...Image

i need to make some bump stops so i dont rip off my shocks again.... the uptravel at sitting height is about 3.5 inchesImage

but the inside coil length is more like 9.5

Image


so i need to rig up a bumpstop being about 6 inches correct? is that stupid to do? seems aweful long to me and will be like driving a school bus with no flex.........any other options? or should i just get some heavy duty stock mounts and weld them back up there? :evil:

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Dynosoar
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Re: noob/idiot suspension question

Post by Dynosoar » Wed Sep 02, 2015 9:43 pm

Is there a reason why you need shocks that only have 3 inches of up travel? My jeep has about the same amount of lift as yours and I have 5 inches of up travel in the back and have never had issues with shocks bottoming out. I have no bumpstops in the rear either.
'03 TJ - RE long arms - ARB's - 35" Baja Claw TTC's - Revolution chromoly D44 rear - HP D30 front with Warn hub conversion - Teraflex high steer system - Rock Hard sport cage - Rough Country rear track bar - Halltrail engine skid - Rampage rear bumper - Engo 10K winch - H4 LED headlight conversion - Metalcloak 6" dual-rate springs and 8" fenders

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Re: noob/idiot suspension question

Post by frosty » Thu Sep 03, 2015 11:05 am

I cant see your pics but I'd get some heavy duty replacements and put them back where they were. At most I might try moving them out towards the axle end some, if possible. Or move the upper mount to get your travel back.

But really just put the replacements back where they were.
[quote]We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the drugs began to take hold.[/quote]

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Re: noob/idiot suspension question

Post by Dynosoar » Thu Sep 03, 2015 12:15 pm

Couldn't he also just get a shorter shock and sacrifice a bit of down travel, but increase up travel?
'03 TJ - RE long arms - ARB's - 35" Baja Claw TTC's - Revolution chromoly D44 rear - HP D30 front with Warn hub conversion - Teraflex high steer system - Rock Hard sport cage - Rough Country rear track bar - Halltrail engine skid - Rampage rear bumper - Engo 10K winch - H4 LED headlight conversion - Metalcloak 6" dual-rate springs and 8" fenders

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Re: noob/idiot suspension question

Post by frosty » Thu Sep 03, 2015 12:25 pm

Dynosoar wrote:Couldn't he also just get a shorter shock and sacrifice a bit of down travel, but increase up travel?
From reading it sounds like he did get new shocks. I'm guessing not the right length. I stand by my put them back where they were comment though vs running 3.5" of up travel. Not that some dont do that but is this driven on the street at all?

The exception being doing something like this, which is why I said "or move the upper mount"... http://www.stu-offroad.com/suspension/r ... hock-1.htm
[quote]We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the drugs began to take hold.[/quote]

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Re: noob/idiot suspension question

Post by Dynosoar » Thu Sep 03, 2015 1:28 pm

I agree that putting them back is probably best. I'm just saying I think he can go the less ideal route and sacrifice down travel to have more up travel if he doesn't want to re-do the work he just did.

I did some sketchy maths because I can't do good maths, but this might be an option:

I'm partial to Doetsch Tech shocks because I am running them in the front and they provide a lot of travel, have built in bumpstops, are built solidly, and are cheap. So if he goes with their 8234 shocks (http://www.doetsch-shocks.com/37.asp), which have 9" of total travel, but are 1.1" shorter than his current shocks (looks like he has Bilstein 24-185264 shocks in the pic), he'd have 4.6" of up travel and 4.4" of down travel, compared to the 3.5" of up travel and 4.94" of down travel he currently has. So he loses .54" of down travel but gains 1.1" of up travel and his up travel would be close to mine (5"), which has been enough to not bottom out, at least not enough to break anything. All for $100. And the built-in bumpstops might decrease the shock to the mounts/shock if he still bottoms out.

Tyler, you could stack hockey pucks on the lower mount to help close that gap if you wanted to. I have some I probably won't use that you can have. You'll need more than what I have though.
'03 TJ - RE long arms - ARB's - 35" Baja Claw TTC's - Revolution chromoly D44 rear - HP D30 front with Warn hub conversion - Teraflex high steer system - Rock Hard sport cage - Rough Country rear track bar - Halltrail engine skid - Rampage rear bumper - Engo 10K winch - H4 LED headlight conversion - Metalcloak 6" dual-rate springs and 8" fenders

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Re: noob/idiot suspension question

Post by frosty » Thu Sep 03, 2015 1:35 pm

I just dont see the benefit of limiting useable travel just because I tore a shock mount off. I'd prefer to use all the spring (right before unseating it) and have a balanced suspension vs limiting one end or the other because a little bracket tore off.

I'm much to lazy to bother with the math. Hockey pucks work to extend the lower mount and I've used them before.
[quote]We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the drugs began to take hold.[/quote]

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tyler
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Re: noob/idiot suspension question

Post by tyler » Thu Sep 03, 2015 2:14 pm

Yea I ripped them off a few times and figured I'd fix it and lose some travel and remount them so they wont rip off....haven't been wheeling so I figured I'd get some pucks in there to make up the room. When I stacked pucks up I wad like uh this looks like shit....I don't mind half ass things,but that's NO ass....just ordered some stock RE ones from quadrajunk ..... glad I saved my other shocks

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Re: noob/idiot suspension question

Post by Boodyrider » Sat Sep 05, 2015 12:48 am

If you ripped mounts off wheeling, they aren't protected enough; move 'em outboard to get them in the 'shadow' of the wheel/tire. If you ripped them off on the street, you are bottoming the shocks out due to excessive shock length and not enough up travel; get a shock that's shorter (for more uptravel) AND move them to the furthest out on the axle you can without hitting wheel or tire during flex. Either way, I'm in favor of maximum uptravel available, with fairly well balanced down travel, so shock length should be determined by distance between mounting points. More travel comes from getting those mounting points as far apart as possible.

The shocks you have now are good ones, but you'll still rip mounts off if they bottom out... so go back to a standard 'below the axle' lower mount, moved outwards as much as reasonably possible, and also move the upper mounting point higher if you can. (There is no good reason the upper mounting point can't be over an inch higher than stock, even without a body lift... it just takes a better thought out bracket than stock.)
97 TJ. It has some stuff.

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Re: noob/idiot suspension question

Post by Boodyrider » Sat Sep 05, 2015 12:53 am

And do look at stu offroad for appropriate bump stop length... if you are lazy, the short version is bump stops (regular rubber ones) need to be about 1/2" to an inch closer to the pad than whatever your uptravel is at ride height... because the bump stop compresses some before stopping suspension travel, and you MUST stop suspension travel before your shock bottoms out, or you WILL rip mounts off and or blow up shocks.
97 TJ. It has some stuff.

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tyler
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Re: noob/idiot suspension question

Post by tyler » Sat Sep 05, 2015 7:57 am

called a guy to weld stock ones on and he said he had some claytons in stock, so im gonna get them put on tomorrow, put my old shocks back on and claytons move it way out ;)Image

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